I believe this is my 5th morning (well afternoon) in Ghana and I am starting to feel alright about the next 6+ months. I am getting a bit weary however, the two girls I have been all of my time with (Katherine and Isabella, both are not with my program) are leaving by the end of next week. There are two girls from my program that are supposed to be moving in to the project to start teaching but they have been sick since they arrived and I have not spoken with them much. So far I have used Katherine and Isabella as my crutch for everything, even though both of them have had to figure out most things for themselves, I see them as my mentors. This is both good and bad because I am going to have to be on my own for quite a bit of this journey. We are leaving tomorrow for the weekend however. The three of us, plus Emily (the other American from my program and Jeanette from Denmark) will be heading to a Lake about two or more hours away. I have forgotten the name of the Lake as it is difficult to pronounce but Katherine has been there and says it is just lovely. We can lay on the sand, swim in the lake and rest in hammocks. There is a cheap bed and breakfast hostel right on the lake that we can stay in. This should be a nice way to spend the weekend. Apparently it is a good idea to try and leave most weekends as there is not much to do at the school. Most of the children are bused in and there is only so much to do in the town.
I am still coughing and also have a mild cold but mostly it is just annoying because I do not feel sick. Although it is hard to be in the front of a hot, humid classroom with dusty floors and made to write in chalk (as this only makes me cough more). I have been asked many times if I have medicine and that I should try local remedies. As for food...there is plenty but I am already growing tired of rice (although it is something I can always count on). I am not a picky eater but sometimes the food just does not appeal to me. Breakfast is fine, usually a rice porridge or oatmeal with bread and tea and lunches have been fine but the other night I was given a red curry type dish with egg. I began to eat it then had to stop chewing to pull out a few bones, one of which got stuck in my throat and then I turned to Katherine who showed me a fish head in her bowl. They use dried fish here and then crush it into a stew. That is one dish I do not think I will ever get used to. I still have some trader joes nut and fruit mix and a protein bar or two but they will not last. Once I get my address...mom and dad please send some protein bars. It is somewhat difficult to get protein here, other than eggs.
I don't think I will ever get used to the driving here although I don't cover my eyes as much. It's as though there are no driving rules what so ever and no lanes. Also it is your own risk to cross the street so watch out. I have seen a few other "whites" walking around but not many. When in town the other day I actually saw a young boy and his father, both with hair blond like mine. We just smiled at each other. We are stared at quite a bit while walking around but for the most part I have not once felt threatened or like a complete odyssey. The centre of Kumasi is bustling with so many people, mostly selling various foods or TONS of second hand shoes and clothes. I have seen a Kobe Bryant jersey and a sonics jersey so far and plenty of american and european brands. I still don't know exactly how hot it is here but I am going to guess in the 80's with HIGH humidity. I have gotten a few bug bites lately but overall not too bad.
Teaching...the school is interesting. I feel very overwhelmed because most teachers just expect I can come in and do anything when really I know not the first thing about being a teacher. I know how to work with children and offer love and friendship but to try to formally teach children in levels one through 5 is quite tough. There is actually just one computer right now and apparently there is a computer teacher, although she does very little I am told. So I am abandoned teaching computers for now. I have taught two class sessions to level 4 and I feel so frustrated, like I am not helping at all. It is so hard to come into a classroom where the students should be at a certain level but are at all different levels. I tried to teach some lessons using adverbs only to realize that they hardly know the difference between nouns, adjectives and verbs. I guess I will just figure everything out. I keep being asked what I want to do by the headmaster Mr. Odame (although he does hardly anything himself and hasn't a clue about anything really) and I never know how to respond. I am hoping to start a tutor program. I want to be with each level one day a week, taking a few kids out of the class at a time to work more one on one. Today there were a few boys who really wanted to grasp the ideas of nouns, adjectives and verbs, and adverbs so I was quizzing them and could see a huge smile when they got it right. There are also a large number of young kindergartners so just run up to you and cling, shouting obuni, obuni (white person). They have such wonderful smiles and just love to touch my hands and wrap themselves around my legs (and the other volunteers of course). I have much to learn but also a lot of time. The girls before me were smart and brought many colors and crafts to make the classroom colorful (since they have nothing). The school is pretty much a huge cement room with cement dividers between each classroom. There is no lights although during the day that does not matter. The floor is compacted dirt but because it is so dry, dust flies everywhere. I have taken pictures but have not figured out the best way to get them on the blog. March 6th and Ghana's independence day and all 52 prep schools in the district will be marching. That should be a fun event. The district is very small as well so there are literally schools everywhere although I assume they are all similar.
I will get the hang of things soon I am sure but I do anticipate being homesick too. I am happy to say that it is quite easy/inexpensive to make calls home (but the 8 hour time difference has been an issue). But please leave comments and write emails. I am in the centre again today but there is an internet cafe much closer to where I live so I expect to be online closer to 3 times a week. Alright, time to go to the pizza place the girls have told me about. There is this place to get pizza and ice cream and it is also the place where any European in Ghana goes. I am looking forward to eating something other than rice!
Have a great weekend all and I will write more soon.
-Erin
Thursday, February 28, 2008
Monday, February 25, 2008
I am here!
Hello everyone,
After a rough journey to Ghana and having spent two nights here I feel better. The jet lag is wearing off and I had a good night's sleep (despite the heat of course, and I think the nyquill helped). So my flight to New York went smoothly. My good friend Lauren arranged for a car to pick me up at the airport and the two of us had a wonderful dinner in Brooklyn. I went back to JFK around 9PM (my flight was supposed to leave at 11:45). I began calling friends and family one last time before leaving the states and then learned that my flight was delayed. I only had two hours to connect to my Ghana flight in London so I was worried. We finally left by 1am. I was able to sleep on the plane somewhat but was indeed late into London. I missed my connecting flight into Ghana. Just one more thing to delay my trip! After spending all day in the damn Heathrow airport (I have no desire to go there again haha) to track down my luggage, the airline put me up in a hotel for the night. I met another woman who was headed to Ghana (and missed the same flight as me) and she and I had dinner together and had rooms right next door. She is also doing volunteer work but just for 4 weeks. Even though I just wanted to get to Ghana already I was so happy for another shower (I took two) and a good meal. The next day we left very early to catch a plane to Frankfurt Germany and then to Ghana. While in the Frankfurt airport my new travel friend (from the previous night) , Marjori and I decided to eat at McDonalds. I never do this in the states but it sounded good at the time. I finally arrived in Ghana at 5:40PM on Saturday (Ghana is 8 hours ahead of West coast time). After customs I found Joseph, the man from my program. He helped me into a taxi and off we went.
Right away I could feel the heat/humidity and non of the cars have air conditioning, the open windows is the a/c. Because I was so late I had missed orientation completely and I could not meet the other volunteers that night. I stayed with Joseph's mother and sister and his nieces and nefhews. I was tired and hungry but was given a rice and egg dish and clean water to drink. I shared some candy with the kids and showed them my seattle post cards. I was given my own room for the night with a ceiling fan although the room was still quite warm and the fan simply circulates stale air. The time change was still bothering me and I fell asleep for just a bit but woke up at 3am wide awake. I could not find my flash light to read so I listened to my ipod and thought about what people were doing in Seattle since it was just 10PM there. Finally I fell back asleep. The next day the young boys were happy to see all the random things I had brought with me in my luggage and to talk about the US. I was given way too much bread and butter for breakfast but I could barely finish it. Joseph picked me up and we tried to find an atm. Joesph lives in Tema, which is outside of Accra so there were few atm's. He and his brother and his brother's wife took me in their taxi to the train station in Accra. They helped me on the bus (this costs 7 Ghana ceties which is just under $7) and I was off on a new 4 hour journey. I was the only white person (obroni, this means white person, which I am called often) but the women around me were very nice and were worried that no one would be at the station in Kumasi to meet me. I thought I would get much reading done but there was too much to look at while on that 4 hour ride. I saw both a busy city/market place and the brush/small towns. People would stare and sometimes smile at me through the windows. I saw a lot of garbage on the sides of the roads and shacks for homes. It is so hard to believe that it is 2008 and the way people must live in Africa is so vastly different than the US. There are goats everywhere and chickens. I think I heard roosters at all hours of the night the first evening I was in Ghana.
People generally look dusty but then you will also see men and women walking through the dirty streets in lovely, clean, beautiful dresses and suits. I was traveling on a Sunday so I think many were making their way to churches. Catholism is the most praticed religion here, and I plan to attend church at few times. After the 4 hours I arrived in Kumasi and Na Na was waiting for me, another coordinator for my program. We hopped in a taxi (they are everywhere) and made our way to through the busy market place to the resident living area. People drive like mad here and they do not care if people are walking ahead of them. It is quite scary at times. It was dark, hot and dusty when we arrived. One thing I have noticed here is I am never allowed to carry my luggage. I'm not sure if it is because I am a woman or what but I only carry my backpack. Once inside this living space I met two other volunteers from the program. Matina from Switzerland and Klara from Denmark. Klara actually had just come back from the hospital because she had become feverish and discovered she had malaria...already! It was caught very early though and she was giving medicine and is feeling better. The room was very small and I was told that I actually was not sleeping there. After checking on the girls I was brought 5 minutes away (down a very bumpy,dusty road) to the community Medoma. This is where the Columbus orphanage and school is located. Once again I had kids carry in my luggage, I tried to help but was told no. There were many people welcoming me and kids running about. This was all fine but I was feeling quite alone. I learned that there was infact another girl living here but she is from a different program. As soon as I met Katherine (an 18 year old from England) I felt better. She is very nice and has been here for 6 weeks. She and Isabell (22, from Norway) were hanging out. Isabell is also from another organization and is living down the road but works at the same school. This room was quite large and has a running toliet AND a shower!! There is one large bed but it is a queen I think, we shared that last night but with our own sheets. She and I talked all evening and she helped me understand what I would be doing. We looked at pictures of freinds and family and just chatted. I later took at shower and washed my hair. Even though it is wonderful to have a shower please know that it is cold water only and the spout is small, nothing like the shower I took in London, still I am grateful. Others must use buckets to wash themselves. I woke up feeling refreshed and with a better attitude. I am still coughing alot but I think it is just the dust because I do not feel sick at all. I came into town today and met another volunteer from Denmark named Janet. She is also 22 and seems to me enjoying herself. I have now been at the internet cafe for over an hour so I must go but I am told it is easy to get to the cafe's. I will write much more soon.
I now have a phone and a phone number. If you use skype it is quite easy to call. Just in case here is my number: from the U.S. dial +233-24-896-0094.
I am now happy and ready to get a routine started. I begin teaching tomorrow and am told I may be working with computers (no internet though), teaching typing to the older students and teaching P.E. in the afternoon with the youngsters. We will see though. Katherine tells me things are fairly unorganized and we must just figure things out for ourselves.
I hope everyone is doing well in the states and please keep in touch.
-Erin
After a rough journey to Ghana and having spent two nights here I feel better. The jet lag is wearing off and I had a good night's sleep (despite the heat of course, and I think the nyquill helped). So my flight to New York went smoothly. My good friend Lauren arranged for a car to pick me up at the airport and the two of us had a wonderful dinner in Brooklyn. I went back to JFK around 9PM (my flight was supposed to leave at 11:45). I began calling friends and family one last time before leaving the states and then learned that my flight was delayed. I only had two hours to connect to my Ghana flight in London so I was worried. We finally left by 1am. I was able to sleep on the plane somewhat but was indeed late into London. I missed my connecting flight into Ghana. Just one more thing to delay my trip! After spending all day in the damn Heathrow airport (I have no desire to go there again haha) to track down my luggage, the airline put me up in a hotel for the night. I met another woman who was headed to Ghana (and missed the same flight as me) and she and I had dinner together and had rooms right next door. She is also doing volunteer work but just for 4 weeks. Even though I just wanted to get to Ghana already I was so happy for another shower (I took two) and a good meal. The next day we left very early to catch a plane to Frankfurt Germany and then to Ghana. While in the Frankfurt airport my new travel friend (from the previous night) , Marjori and I decided to eat at McDonalds. I never do this in the states but it sounded good at the time. I finally arrived in Ghana at 5:40PM on Saturday (Ghana is 8 hours ahead of West coast time). After customs I found Joseph, the man from my program. He helped me into a taxi and off we went.
Right away I could feel the heat/humidity and non of the cars have air conditioning, the open windows is the a/c. Because I was so late I had missed orientation completely and I could not meet the other volunteers that night. I stayed with Joseph's mother and sister and his nieces and nefhews. I was tired and hungry but was given a rice and egg dish and clean water to drink. I shared some candy with the kids and showed them my seattle post cards. I was given my own room for the night with a ceiling fan although the room was still quite warm and the fan simply circulates stale air. The time change was still bothering me and I fell asleep for just a bit but woke up at 3am wide awake. I could not find my flash light to read so I listened to my ipod and thought about what people were doing in Seattle since it was just 10PM there. Finally I fell back asleep. The next day the young boys were happy to see all the random things I had brought with me in my luggage and to talk about the US. I was given way too much bread and butter for breakfast but I could barely finish it. Joseph picked me up and we tried to find an atm. Joesph lives in Tema, which is outside of Accra so there were few atm's. He and his brother and his brother's wife took me in their taxi to the train station in Accra. They helped me on the bus (this costs 7 Ghana ceties which is just under $7) and I was off on a new 4 hour journey. I was the only white person (obroni, this means white person, which I am called often) but the women around me were very nice and were worried that no one would be at the station in Kumasi to meet me. I thought I would get much reading done but there was too much to look at while on that 4 hour ride. I saw both a busy city/market place and the brush/small towns. People would stare and sometimes smile at me through the windows. I saw a lot of garbage on the sides of the roads and shacks for homes. It is so hard to believe that it is 2008 and the way people must live in Africa is so vastly different than the US. There are goats everywhere and chickens. I think I heard roosters at all hours of the night the first evening I was in Ghana.
People generally look dusty but then you will also see men and women walking through the dirty streets in lovely, clean, beautiful dresses and suits. I was traveling on a Sunday so I think many were making their way to churches. Catholism is the most praticed religion here, and I plan to attend church at few times. After the 4 hours I arrived in Kumasi and Na Na was waiting for me, another coordinator for my program. We hopped in a taxi (they are everywhere) and made our way to through the busy market place to the resident living area. People drive like mad here and they do not care if people are walking ahead of them. It is quite scary at times. It was dark, hot and dusty when we arrived. One thing I have noticed here is I am never allowed to carry my luggage. I'm not sure if it is because I am a woman or what but I only carry my backpack. Once inside this living space I met two other volunteers from the program. Matina from Switzerland and Klara from Denmark. Klara actually had just come back from the hospital because she had become feverish and discovered she had malaria...already! It was caught very early though and she was giving medicine and is feeling better. The room was very small and I was told that I actually was not sleeping there. After checking on the girls I was brought 5 minutes away (down a very bumpy,dusty road) to the community Medoma. This is where the Columbus orphanage and school is located. Once again I had kids carry in my luggage, I tried to help but was told no. There were many people welcoming me and kids running about. This was all fine but I was feeling quite alone. I learned that there was infact another girl living here but she is from a different program. As soon as I met Katherine (an 18 year old from England) I felt better. She is very nice and has been here for 6 weeks. She and Isabell (22, from Norway) were hanging out. Isabell is also from another organization and is living down the road but works at the same school. This room was quite large and has a running toliet AND a shower!! There is one large bed but it is a queen I think, we shared that last night but with our own sheets. She and I talked all evening and she helped me understand what I would be doing. We looked at pictures of freinds and family and just chatted. I later took at shower and washed my hair. Even though it is wonderful to have a shower please know that it is cold water only and the spout is small, nothing like the shower I took in London, still I am grateful. Others must use buckets to wash themselves. I woke up feeling refreshed and with a better attitude. I am still coughing alot but I think it is just the dust because I do not feel sick at all. I came into town today and met another volunteer from Denmark named Janet. She is also 22 and seems to me enjoying herself. I have now been at the internet cafe for over an hour so I must go but I am told it is easy to get to the cafe's. I will write much more soon.
I now have a phone and a phone number. If you use skype it is quite easy to call. Just in case here is my number: from the U.S. dial +233-24-896-0094.
I am now happy and ready to get a routine started. I begin teaching tomorrow and am told I may be working with computers (no internet though), teaching typing to the older students and teaching P.E. in the afternoon with the youngsters. We will see though. Katherine tells me things are fairly unorganized and we must just figure things out for ourselves.
I hope everyone is doing well in the states and please keep in touch.
-Erin
Friday, February 15, 2008
FINALLY...
I can hardly believe that February is already half over...and I am still in the U.S. I am over the top frustrated and want nothing more than to be in Africa right now. Last night I was supposed to finally leave from JFK and would happily be arriving in Ghana right now, meeting my new roommates etc. Instead I was diagnosed with pneumonia Monday night. Oh well, I try not to ask sympathy because I am doing plenty of self pity. Of course I don't feel well at all (although today is starting to look better), I mostly and just bummed because once again I had to postpone my travel date. My dad was able to talk to the airlines and get a new ticket free of cost! My new travel date (that won't be altered for anything) is Thursday Feb 21st.
Most know that I changed my volunteer location from Kenya to Ghana although not all may know what I will be doing. From the fairly short paragraph I received about my duties I can tell you that I will be working in an orphanage with both orphans and non orphans. I will be working with them in the classroom, help with basic internet skills and offer swimming lessons. Everything else I will learn when I get there. I am still living in Kumasi, 100 miles north of Accra, the capital of Ghana. I am working in a small community called Medoma where there are 3000 people living, as well as good drinking water, and electricity. Again, I am sure I will be able to provide a much better discription in one week. Until then I am instructed to stay inside (at least at night), get my rest and repack my suitcase since it looks although it may explode! It has been a full week since I have been sick and not been able to do a whole lot, or leave the house so Thursday cannot get here fast enough!
Thank you everyone for your concern and friendship while I have been stuck here. Please keep in touch, I promise to write much more from now on.
Most know that I changed my volunteer location from Kenya to Ghana although not all may know what I will be doing. From the fairly short paragraph I received about my duties I can tell you that I will be working in an orphanage with both orphans and non orphans. I will be working with them in the classroom, help with basic internet skills and offer swimming lessons. Everything else I will learn when I get there. I am still living in Kumasi, 100 miles north of Accra, the capital of Ghana. I am working in a small community called Medoma where there are 3000 people living, as well as good drinking water, and electricity. Again, I am sure I will be able to provide a much better discription in one week. Until then I am instructed to stay inside (at least at night), get my rest and repack my suitcase since it looks although it may explode! It has been a full week since I have been sick and not been able to do a whole lot, or leave the house so Thursday cannot get here fast enough!
Thank you everyone for your concern and friendship while I have been stuck here. Please keep in touch, I promise to write much more from now on.
Tuesday, January 8, 2008
Delayed...
Hello everyone...
First and foremost: THANK YOU so much to all those who helped in so many ways to support me and my volunteer efforts in Africa. I appreciate all the financial support as well as the travel advice, the hugs and compassion and the friendships.
With that said...
Although I had hoped to write my first blog on the eve of my journey, as most of you now know, I had to put those travels on hold for just a bit. Kenya's presidential election took place on December 27th and the violence began shortly after. President Kibaki won the election and the opposition, Odinga then accused Kibaki of rigging the election. Most of the violence started between the two largest Kenyan tribes, the Luo (Odinga) and the Kikuyu (Kibaki). Currently, over 500 people have been killed (according to the Seattle Times) and although many are calling for a peaceful stop to the violence, it does not look like things will be settling down within the next few weeks.
My heart goes out to all those that live in Kenya, the innocent children and those fully participating in the violence. From what I learned during my time in South Africa, so many people living in various slums all over Africa have such a low quality of life that they feel they have nothing to lose but to kill others and risk their own lives for something to believe in. Of course I wish for nothing else but to be able to go to Kenya and begin the journey I have been planning since I applied to United Planet in late June but I must respect the organization that postponed the program, the U.S. government travel alerts and of course my parents. I spoke with United Planet yesterday expressing my want to possibly relocate.
There are two other girls from the U.S. also supposed to be in Kenya right now. I have been talking to both of them and have grown especially close to Emily, from Arkansas. It is amazing to me how two people can become friends without ever meeting one another. One of my major disappointments (aside from being told I have to wait) was not being able to meet Emily just yet. The two of us, along with Laura from San Diego, hope to all be placed in another country. United Planet offers programs in Uganda, Nigeria, Ghana, Morocco and Mozambique. I honestly just want to get going at this point and while each country is different, I am sure I will enjoy myself where ever I am placed. I should hear by the end of the week of my plans (and then I must apply for a new visa AND rebook plane tickets...quite pricey). I will of course keep everyone up to date.
Before I go, I have just one more thought: I felt shocked at first when I told so many people (I am speaking majorly about people in their twenties) who had no idea as to why I had to postpone my trip. I then wondered just how on top of the growing Kenya new stories I would be had I not been planning on moving there. I like to think I am on top of world events however I most likely would not have made the effort to know what was going on outside of the U.S. I urge everyone, but mostly those in close to my age to check the new papers or online cnn.com to be up to date with news about the world. Please look into the violence in Kenya on your own. There are many articles on the Seattle Times website.
Thank you all and I will be in touch.
Cheers,
Erin
First and foremost: THANK YOU so much to all those who helped in so many ways to support me and my volunteer efforts in Africa. I appreciate all the financial support as well as the travel advice, the hugs and compassion and the friendships.
With that said...
Although I had hoped to write my first blog on the eve of my journey, as most of you now know, I had to put those travels on hold for just a bit. Kenya's presidential election took place on December 27th and the violence began shortly after. President Kibaki won the election and the opposition, Odinga then accused Kibaki of rigging the election. Most of the violence started between the two largest Kenyan tribes, the Luo (Odinga) and the Kikuyu (Kibaki). Currently, over 500 people have been killed (according to the Seattle Times) and although many are calling for a peaceful stop to the violence, it does not look like things will be settling down within the next few weeks.
My heart goes out to all those that live in Kenya, the innocent children and those fully participating in the violence. From what I learned during my time in South Africa, so many people living in various slums all over Africa have such a low quality of life that they feel they have nothing to lose but to kill others and risk their own lives for something to believe in. Of course I wish for nothing else but to be able to go to Kenya and begin the journey I have been planning since I applied to United Planet in late June but I must respect the organization that postponed the program, the U.S. government travel alerts and of course my parents. I spoke with United Planet yesterday expressing my want to possibly relocate.
There are two other girls from the U.S. also supposed to be in Kenya right now. I have been talking to both of them and have grown especially close to Emily, from Arkansas. It is amazing to me how two people can become friends without ever meeting one another. One of my major disappointments (aside from being told I have to wait) was not being able to meet Emily just yet. The two of us, along with Laura from San Diego, hope to all be placed in another country. United Planet offers programs in Uganda, Nigeria, Ghana, Morocco and Mozambique. I honestly just want to get going at this point and while each country is different, I am sure I will enjoy myself where ever I am placed. I should hear by the end of the week of my plans (and then I must apply for a new visa AND rebook plane tickets...quite pricey). I will of course keep everyone up to date.
Before I go, I have just one more thought: I felt shocked at first when I told so many people (I am speaking majorly about people in their twenties) who had no idea as to why I had to postpone my trip. I then wondered just how on top of the growing Kenya new stories I would be had I not been planning on moving there. I like to think I am on top of world events however I most likely would not have made the effort to know what was going on outside of the U.S. I urge everyone, but mostly those in close to my age to check the new papers or online cnn.com to be up to date with news about the world. Please look into the violence in Kenya on your own. There are many articles on the Seattle Times website.
Thank you all and I will be in touch.
Cheers,
Erin
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